Dinosaur National Monument
Details: Dinosaurs once roamed here. Their fantastic remains are still visibly embedded in the rocks. Today, the mountains, desert, and untamed rivers flowing in deep canyons support an array of life. Petroglyphs hint at earlier cultures. Later, homesteaders and outlaws found refuge here. Whether your passion is science, adventure, history or scenery, Dinosaur offers much to explore.
Dinosaur's climate is semiarid with temperatures averaging between 0°F to 30°F in January and 50°F to 100°F in July. Extreme winter low temperatures may reach -40°F and summer highs can top 110°F. Elevations within the park vary between 4,700 and 9,000 feet. Winter snow may be heavy at higher elevations while only light to moderate snow is found at lower elevations. Summer thunderstorms may cause heavy downpours and localized flooding, but fail to dampen parched soils less than a mile away.
Directions: Dinosaur National Monument is located on the Colorado and Utah border with a parts of the monument in both states. Dinosaur fossils are not visible in the Colorado portion of the monument - only on the Utah side. The Quarry Visitor Center and Exhibit Hall (where you see the dinosaur fossils) are located approximately 7 miles north of Jensen, Utah.
Allosaurus fragilis
Allosaurus, meaning "different delicate reptile," is a theropod (meat-eating dinosaur) that probably ate other smaller dinosaurs. Its teeth were up to 3 in (7.6 cm) long and serrated like steak knives for cutting flesh. Adults hunted by overpowering their prey, possibly in small groups. Juvenile Allosaurus relied on their longer limb bones that were better adapted to running in order to hunt smaller vertebrates. Even though Allosaurus grew up to 30 ft (8.5 m) in length, it was not the largest predator of the time. Its sharp teeth and hook-shaped claws did, however, make Allosaurus a nightmare for many creatures of the Jurassic.
Allosaurus fragilis is the most common species of carnivorous theropod dinosaur in the Morrison Formation from the Late Jurassic of North America. Although only a few of its bones are exposed in the present day quarry at Dinosaur, one of the best skeletons ever found came from the Carnegie Quarry including a remarkably preserved skull that is currently on exhibit in the Quarry Exhibit Hall.
Dinosaur skulls are rarely preserved because they are made of very thin bone that is easily crushed. Skulls are mostly hollow to hold soft tissues that cannot be preserved. Fine sediments compress the skull to flatten it the way you might step on an empty tin can. These skulls may be preserved, but some of the three-dimensional structure is lost. The sand-sized sediments in the Carnegie Quarry are fine enough to preserve bone in great detail but coarse enough to resist compression of the skulls.
Allosaurus fragilis is one of three theropods found in the Carnegie Quarry, the others being Ceratosaurus sp. and Torvosaurus tanneri.This specimen of Allosaurus fragilis has attracted the attention of paleontologists around the world and has been referenced in many scientific studies. You don't, however, have to be a scientist to marvel at this beautiful specimen. The real skull is on display at the Quarry Exhibit Hall.
Allosaurus jimmadseni
Allosaurus jimmadseni is the second species of Allosaurus found at Dinosaur National Monument. The first specimen of A. jimmadseni was found in the monument. It is much rarer than Allosaurus fragilis and they differ in their skeletal details.
Allosaurus, meaning "different reptile," is a theropod (meat eating dinosaur) that probably ate other smaller dinosaurs. Its teeth were serrated like steak knives for cutting flesh. Adults hunted by overpowering their prey, possibly in small groups. Juvenile Allosaurus relied on their longer limb bones that were better adapted to running in order to hunt small vertebrates. Allosaurus was not the largest predator of the time, but its sharp teeth and hook-shaped claws made Allosaurus a nightmare for many creatures of the Jurassic.
Only half of an Allosaurus jimmadseni skull has been found so far. However, the skull separated along its natural midline. Although only the left half of the skull is preserved, it shows both the outside shape and the internal structures, which are rarely seen. The entire braincase is present as well as both ear bones. For the first time in any Allosaurus the wishbone is in place. This Allosaurus jimmadseni is most complete Allosaurus of any species ever found.
Apatosaurus louisae
Apatosaurus louisae is a species of sauropod dinosaur from the Late Jurassic of North America found in the Morrison Formation, and its remains are present on the Wall of Bones at Dinosaur National Monument. Apatosaurus grew up to 69 ft (21 m) long and ate plants. You may have heard it referred to by its scientifically incorrect name, Brontosaurus. This sauropod (long necked dinosaur) was discovered and named Apatosaurus, or "false lizard," because of its unbelievably large size. After Apatosaurus was named, other sauropod specimens were named Brontosaurus. It was later determined that both names actually referred to the same animal, Apatosaurus. In science the first used name is the official name.
A skeleton of Apatosaurus louisae was the first dinosaur to be excavated at the quarry by Earl Douglass, and was found by eight vertebrae sticking out of the rock. The species "louisae" was named after Andrew Carnegie's wife, Louise. Carnegie financed most of the excavations of the quarry at Dinosaur and had many of the specimens sent to Pittsburgh, Pennsylvania, where they still stand in the museum that bears his name.
The "Discovery Bones" that led to the discovery of the Carnegie Quarry were tail vertebrae (back bones) of Apatosaurus louisae. This specimen, a nearly complete skeleton with a skull, became the type specimen of Apatosaurus louisae. This means that it was the first of its species ever found and scientifically described.Like many sauropods and dinosaurs in general, Apatosaurus skulls are extremely rare. The skull bones are thin and easily crushed. Skulls are mostly hollow to hold soft tissues that cannot be preserved. Fine sediments compress the skull to flatten it the way you might step on an empty tin can. These skulls may be preserved, but some of the three-dimensional structure is lost.
The only Apatosaurus skull in the world was found in the Carnegie Quarry because the sand-sized sediment preserves bone in great detail without compressing it. Today a cast of the Apatosaurus skull is still on display with the rest of the specimen at the Carnegie Museum of Natural History in Pittsburgh, Pennsylvania. The real skull is not on display due to the fragile nature of the bone.
Baker Cabin
Sitting high above the Yampa River in a remote side canyon, the Baker Cabin is a testament to the resilence of people who sought to settle homesteads in this remote landscape.
Barosaurus lentus
Barosaurus is a plant eater and the least common of all the sauropods (long-necked dinosaurs) found in the Carnegie Quarry. It is similar to Diplodocus, but has a longer neck and shorter tail. The forelimbs of Barosaurus are longer and more slender than those of the Diplodocus. Unfortunately, no one has ever found a Barosaurus skull so those on display are based on the skulls of other sauropods.
The most complete real Barosaurus skeleton on display is at the Royal Ontario Museum in Toronto, Ontario, Canada. It was also found in the Carnegie Quarry and acquired as part of a trade between museums. One of the boxes contained a surprise: an eight inch square imprint of Barosaurus skin attached to a limb bone! Dinosaur skin imprints are extremely rare but helpful in determining how dinosaurs might have looked. You can see the original skin imprint with the skeleton on display at the Royal Ontario Museum.
Beginning Dinosaur's Fossil Discovery Trail
Like chapters in a book, the geologic formations (layers) on this tilted rock trail are chapters of ancient environments deposited here over millions of years. While standing behind the Quarry Visitor Center, look at the Frontier Sandstone cliff beside you. High above the trailhead sign and on the cliff, notice the wavy ripple marks within the large dark brown patches. These ripples were created when water moved over sand. If you were hiking here approximately 100 million years ago, you would have been walking along the sandy shores of the Cretaceous Interior Seaway. Cretaceous Atlas of Ancient Life | Geology A vast difference from the high desert environment of today!
On the ground, behind and to the left of the trailhead sign is another notable feature, a huge chocolate-colored rocky sphere known as a concretion. This concretion also has a delightful star-shaped crack that filled in with minerals which crystalized. Concretions are masses of mineral matter embedded in the sandstone. They often form when minerals settling out ground water gather around a nucleus, such as a pebble or shell. Concretions can be any size, but the hefty dimensions of this one (and others here) is due to the presence of large amounts of water from the former seaway.
While staying on the trail, there are a number of other large concretions in this area How many others can you locate? Hint: There are five others, but some are badly weathered and have broke apart.
As you proceed along the Frontier Formation, you may see animals such as squirrels, marmots, birds, rabbits, snakes, or lizards. NPSpecies- Search for a Park Species List
Keep wildlife wild and yourself safe by observing all creatures from a distance.
Once you reach the end of the Frontier Formation, just around the corner, you'll see how ancient people used the geology here. Petroglyphs were pecked into this rock with tools to make symbols of people, animals or patterns. Pictographs are painted symbols. These were created approximately 1,000 years ago by ancient people archaeologists call the Fremont. Fremont Culture - Dinosaur National Monument (U.S. National Park Service) (nps.gov). Since the Fremont did not have a written language (as did the Egyptians for example, with their hieroglyphs) the exact meaning of the Fremont symbols is unknown.
Help us protect these and all petroglyph sites for future generations by not touching them.
Hike on to discover the next chapter in our ancient book - the Mowry Shale Formation.
Blue Mountain Road
The Blue Mountain road is steep, rough, and suitable only for 4-wheel drive vehicles with off-road tires that leaves the monument. It climbs about 3000 feet to the top of Blue Mountain. This mountain offers dramatic views of the area. The summit also harbors a relict woodland called Point of the Pines. Some mountaintops in this area contain small groves of conifers like ponderosa pine only on the very top. During the last ice age these trees were much more widespread in the region. With a warmer and drier climate during the last 10,000 years, these trees are now restricted to mountaintops where they find just enough moisture to survive.
Box Canyon Trail
Casting a looing shadow over the Josie Morris cabin, Box Canyon stands as a cooling refuge. The trail is fairly level and hikers will have stunning views on all sides of the craggy Weber sandstone from Split Mountain. This trail is excellent for families with children, even during the heat of the day.
Length: ½ mile round trip. Not a loop.
Level of Difficulty: Easy. The trail is gravel and even terrain for most of the hike.
Trailhead Location: End of the Cub Creek Road (Tour of Tilted Rocks Auto Tour) at Josie's Cabin, 10 miles east of the Quarry Visitor Center.
Your Safety: Be prepared for desert hiking. Take a hat, sunscreen, and water. Let someone know where you are going, and when to expect you back. Wear comfortable shoes, such as hiking or athletic shoes. Use caution near cliffs! Keep children and leashed pets close by.
Rules and Regulations:
- Pets are not allowed on this trail.
- Carry out all trash.
- Collecting artifacts, fossils, plants, antlers, rocks, or other objects is prohibited.
- Do not feed or approach wildlife.
- Biking is not permitted on this trail.
Bull Canyon Trail
CAUTION: Storm damage from August 2021 has altered and removed sections of the former trail. This unmaintained route contains several natural obstacles potential hikers must be prepared to navigate. This steep trail descends from the Yampa Bench Road to the Yampa River near the Harding Hole campsites. The trail provides dramatic views of Bull Canyon and the Yampa River. The Harding Hole campsites are reserved for river users during the high use season (see river rafting information). In the off-season, campsites are open to backpackers. River rafters can use the Bull Canyon Trail to access the sweeping views from Wagon Wheel Point.
Length: 1½ mile one way / 3 miles round trip. Not a loop
Level of Difficulty: Difficult - Unmaintained Route
Trailhead Location: On the Yampa Bench Road, just east of Wagon Wheel Point Overlook, or from Harding Hole #1 campsite on the Yampa River.
Your Safety: Be prepared for desert hiking. Take a hat, sunscreen, and water. Let someone know where you are going, and when to expect you back. Wear comfortable shoes, such as hiking or athletic shoes. Use caution near cliffs! This area is frequented by wildlife including black bears and mountain lions. Hike in groups. Watch for cactus.
Rules and Regulations:
- Pets are not allowed on this trail.
- Carry out all trash.
- Collecting artifacts, fossils, plants, antlers, rocks, or other objects is prohibited.
- Do not feed or approach wildlife.
- Biking is not permitted on this trail.
- There are steep drop offs and loose rocks along the trail. Use caution.
Camarasaurus lentus
Camarasaurus lentus is a species of sauropod dinosaur from the Late Jurassic of the Morrison Formation. Camarasaurus lentus was a herbivore, and grew up to fifty feet long, shorter in length than some of its contemporaries like Diplodocus and Apatosaurus, but stood taller. Camarasaurus sounds huge by modern standards, but it is only a mid-sized sauropod. It had spoon-shaped teeth for eating rough plants. Camarasaurus, meaning "chambered lizard," got its name because of the holes in the vertebrae (back bones). The hollow bones were lighter, reducing the weight and strain on an already large animal.
Camarasaurus is one of the most common sauropods (long-necked dinosaurs) of the Jurassic. Both adult and juvenile Camarasaurus bones have been found at Dinosaur. A juvenile, nearly complete and articulated-meaning that most of the bones were discovered in life position-is the most complete sauropod skeleton ever found. Even the ear bones and skull were intact! In fact, it's such a nice specimen that it has never been completely removed from the sandstone block in which it was found. Enough of the rock was removed to reveal the left side of the specimen. The back legs and tail were straightened before being put on display. When it was discovered, the tail curled back so it was almost touching the skull. Aside from a few minor changes, the specimen looks just as it did when it was discovered and can still be seen at the Carnegie Museum of Natural History in Pittsburgh, Pennsylvania.
A larger specimen is one of the most complete Camarasaurus ever found. This includes a skull, bones from all four legs, and most of the backbone and tail. Although pieces of Camarasaurus are fairly common in the Morrison Formation, the thin bone and hollow space in the skull make preservation difficult. It was prepared, or removed from the rock to display, as an exhibit at the 1933 World's Fair. Today it's on display at the National Museum of Natural History (Smithsonian) in Washington, D.C.
Camptosaurus aphanoecetes
Camptosaurus is a two-legged plant eating dinosaur. The beak-like front of the skull did not have teeth but was used to nip vegetation. Camptosaurus may have lived in small groups. It depended on its speed to escape predators. Camptosaurus is the ancestor of later large herbivores, such as iguanodonts, and duck bills.
Camptosaurus aphanoecetes is a species of ornithopod dinosaur from the Late Jurassic of North America, found in the Morrison Formation. Its bones are exposed on the quarry wall at Dinosaur National Monument.
Despite not having been found with a skull, the specimen from Dinosaur is the most complete Camptosaurus ever found. Like Camarasaurus it was on display for many years in the same block in which it was found. When the Carnegie remodeled their dinosaur exhibits, they decided to remove Camptosaurus from its stony prison to mount as a skeleton. Surprisingly, this specimen, which was identified as Camptosaurus medius for many years, was discovered to be an entirely new species in 2008.
Camptosaurus aphanoecetes is a new species of Camptosaurus, described by Ken Carpenter in 2008. The species name aphanoecetes comes from Greek aphanoe- meaning “hidden”, and -cetes, meaning “to dwell”. This name refers to the fact that a new species had been “hidden in plain sight” at the Carnegie Museum for over seventy-five years as a mounted skeleton.
A Camptosaurus embryo was also found at Dinosaur. Although these bones were found without eggshell fragments, it has been identified as an embryo. The bones themselves are more fibrous in surface texture than those of the adult. Certain parts of the backbone on this specimen had not yet fused together as they are in adults. The Camptosaurus would probably have spinal cord damage when walking around if these bones never fused. These features are present in dinosaur embryos studied all over the world.
Ceratosaurus
Ceratosaurus is a genus of carnivorous theropod dinosaur from the Late Jurassic Morrison Formation. It is known from the Carnegie Quarry at Dinosaur National Monument from a single bone, a premaxilla. This bone is diagnostic for Ceratosaurus because, unlike other Morrison Formation theropods, Ceratosaurus has only three teeth in its premaxilla. Much rarer than its contemporary Allosaurus, the top of its snout was adorned with a crest, formed from its nasal bone.
Confluence Trail
Leaving from the Echo Park Campground, this trail wanders through Echo Park towards the confluence of the Green and Yampa rivers alongside the towering Steamboat Rock. The trail ends at the mouth of Sand Canyon.
Sand Canyon is open to off-trail hiking for an 8-mile loop back to Yampa Bench Road, however it is not marked and considered moderately difficult in terms of terrain. Some route finding and navigation skills required along with occasional scrambling.
Length: 1.25 miles one-way / 2.5 miles round trip. Not a loop.
Level of Difficulty: Easy. The trail is sand and even terrain for most of the hike.
Trailhead Location: End of the Echo Park Road further down from the vaulted toilets and boat ramp.
Your Safety: Be prepared for desert hiking. Take a hat, sunscreen, and water. Let someone know where you are going, and when to expect you back. Wear comfortable shoes, such as hiking or athletic shoes. This area is frequented by wildlife including black bears and mountain lions. Hike in groups. Watch for cactus.
Rules and Regulations:
- Pets are not allowed on this trail.
- Carry out all trash.
- Collecting artifacts, fossils, plants, antlers, rocks, or other objects is prohibited.
- Do not feed or approach wildlife.
- Biking is not permitted on this trail.
Cub Creek Petroglyphs Pullout #13
Around a thousand years ago, someone climbed to the cliff face above with a stone tool in hand. That person selected an area of sandstone darkened by minerals and began to chip away at the rock. After hours of chipping and carving, the image of a bighorn sheep began to take shape.
Today we marvel at these images and wonder about the ancestral indigenous people who etched in this rock. Archaeological evidence indicates that this culture was in the Dinosaur area for about 600 years.The petroglyph panels here at Cub Creek feature a variety of typical Fremont designs, including human and animal figures and abstract designs.
Don't touch! Petroglyphs and pictographs are fragile, irreplaceable records of the past that many still hold sacred. Touching them can leave skin oils behind, and tracings or rubbings can ruin the designs. Federal law protects all artifacts, including these sites. Do your part to respect and protect the past, and report any vandalism you find.
Cub Creek Petroglyphs Pullout #14
A quarter mile hike up from Cub Creek Road leads to a variety of panels along a sandstone cliff. Over 1,000 years ago, the ancestral indigenous people of the region came here to carve and create elaborate designs including the 5 foot long lizard petroglyphs.
Today we marvel at these images and wonder about the ancestral indigenous people who etched in this rock. Archeological evidence indicates that this culture was in the Dinosaur area for about 600 years.
Don't touch! Petroglyphs and pictographs are fragile, irreplaceable records of the past that many still hold sacred. Touching them can leave skin oils behind, and tracings or rubbings can ruin the designs. Federal law protects all artifacts, including these sites. Do your part to respect and protect the past, and report any vandalism you find.
Deluge Shelter Petroglyphs
Approximately 800 to 1,400 years ago, this area was home the ancestral indigenous people of the region. They left evidence of their presence in the form of petroglyphs, patterns chipped or carved into the rock, and pictographs, patterns painted on the rock. For a thousand years, this rock overhang has shaded these pictographs from the strong midday sun. This limited exposure to sunlight may have helped to preserve the vibrant colors in these ancient images.
Few permenant structures remain, but known dwelling sites range from natural shelters, such as rock overhangs or shallow caves, to small villages. Because these people moved according to the availability of water and food, they occupied many of the dwelling sites for only part of the year. They may have used this site, Deluge Shelter, in the same manner.
Don't touch! Petroglyphs and pictographs are fragile, irreplaceable records of the past that many still hold sacred. Touching them can leave skin oils behind and tracings or rubbings can ruin the designs. Federal law protects all artifacts, including these sites. Do your part to respect and protect the past and report any vandalism you find.
Desert Voices Trail
The Desert Voices Trail offers spectacular views of Split Mountain and several adjacent rock layers. Trail signs describe the area's geology and ecology. There are also many signs that were written and drawn by children for children.
Length: 1½ mile round trip. A ¼ mile connector trail allows you to combine this with the Sound of Silence loop for an even longer hike.
Level of Difficulty: Moderate. Elevation change is approximately 300 feet.
Trailhead Location: Split Mountain Boat Ramp, approximately 4 miles east of the Quarry Visitor Center.
Your Safety: Be prepared for desert hiking. Take a hat, sunscreen, and water. Let someone know where you are going, and when to expect you back. Wear comfortable shoes, such as hiking or athletic shoes. Keep children and leashed pets close by.
Rules and Regulations:
- Pets are not allowed on this trail or in the monument's backcountry.
- Carry out all trash.
- Collecting artifacts, fossils, plants, antlers, rocks, or other objects is prohibited.
- Do not feed or approach wildlife.
- Biking is not permitted on this trail.
Diplodocus longus
Diplodocus longus is a species of sauropod dinosaur from the Late Jurassic of North America. Diplodocus is one of the most abundant sauropods (long-necked dinosaurs) in the Morrison Formation. Its pencil-like teeth were only in the front of the jaws and were used to strip leaves off of low-growing plants. It could get up to 92 ft (28 m) in length and traveled in small herds. Despite its length, it was lightly built, weighing a mere 15 tons. An Apatosaurus of the same length would weigh nearly twice as much as a Diplodocus.
The Carnegie Quarry yielded three of the most complete Diplodocus skeletons ever found. Well-preserved adults and juveniles have been found with uncrushed skulls, which are rarely preserved. Skulls are made of thin bone and are mostly hollow to hold soft tissues that cannot be preserved. Fine sediments compress the skull to flatten it the way you might step on an empty tin can. These skulls may be preserved, but some of the three-dimensional structure is lost. The sand-sized sediments in the Carnegie Quarry are fine enough to skulls without compressing them, even with Diplodocus juveniles.
One specimen included all 82 tail vertebrae in position. About a third of the tail is a whiplash made up of very small bones. The smallest tail bone could easily fit in the palm of your hand! The current in a river often moves too fast and quickly whisks away these small fragments to be lost forever. Fortunately, the Carnegie Quarry was formed under conditions that allowed for preservation of small and delicate bones. Today this specimen, with its full tail, is on display at the Denver Museum of Nature and Science. This is the closest mounted specimen of original material to the Carnegie Quarry.
Dryosaurus altus
Dryosaurus altus is a species of ornithopod dinosaur from the Late Jurassic of North America, found in the Morrison Formation. Dryosaurus altus means “oak lizard” in reference to the leaf shaped teeth. It is a plant eating dinosaur with a beak and teeth in the back of its mouth. It had five fingers on each hand. To escape predators Dryosaurus depended on its strong legs to quickly run away.
Both adult and juvenile Dryosaurus skeletons and skulls have been found in the Carnegie Quarry. The adult skull is the most complete best preserved in the world. Dinosaur skulls are mostly hollow and made of thin bone that often breaks. Fine sediments compress the skull during burial to flatten it the way you might step on an empty tin can. These skulls may be preserved, but some of the 3-D structure is lost. The sand-sized sediments in the Carnegie Quarry allow the Dryosaurus to be preserved in great detail without being crushed. The mounted skeleton at the Carnegie Museum of Natural History is the most complete found in Western Hemisphere and the only mounted Dryosaurus altus in the world.
The juvenile skull found is the most complete juvenile Dryosaurus skull ever found. Juvenile dinosaurs in general are rare finds. Since the bones are smaller and more fragile than those of the adults, they are easily broken or washed away in rivers before they are fossilized. Although most of the body was found, only the skull is on display.
Echo Park
Echo Park is located in the heart of Dinosaur's canyon country. Here, the Yampa River flows into the Green River, which winds around the massive feature known as Steamboat Rock. The meeting of the two rivers along with nearby geologic faults created some of the monument's most dramatic scenery.
Echo Park provides many opportunities to enjoy remarkable surroundings, discover ancestral Native American petroglyphs or explore the area's homsteading and ranching history. You can watch watch river rafters float past on the Green River. Picnicking and camping are also available in the area. A spectacular display of stars is visible in the night sky due to the lack of any light pollution from nearby towns and cities.
Echo Park Overlook
From here you can see directly down into Echo Park. Beyond Steamboat Rock, just out of sight, is the confluence of the Green and Yampa rivers. Both are part of the Upper Colorado River system, and each has its own unique story.
From almost the beginning of American settlement in the West, demand for water has exceeded availability. In 1950, the United States Bureau of Reclamation presented the Colorado River Storage Project, a proposal to construct several dams throughout the Colorado River system. The initial project included a dam downstream of Echo Park that would have flooded both the Green and Yampa rivers, destroying many of the natural and cultural features that had been protected as part of Dinosaur National Monument since a boundary expansion in 1938.
This proposed dam had the potential to set a precedent that put every national park and monument at risk of development, and environmental groups took a strong stand against it. The movement to defeat the Echo Park Dam garnered tremendous public support and ultimately was successful. However, a dam was still built upstream on the Green River at Flaming Gorge.
In its natural state, the Green River flooded almost every spring, carrying loads of silt and scouring its banks. Life in the river was so well-adapted to this environment that many organisms depended on this seasonal influx of water and sediment to survive. In 1964, the Flaming Gorge Dam was completed, trapping silt behind its walls and regulating water flow at a constant rate. Native species, ill-adapted to this cold, clear water, began to suffer.
Today, the dam regulates water releases in an attempt to mimic the natural rhythms of the Green River and aid in the recovery of native species.
The Yampa River stands in contrast to the today’s Green River. The Yampa is the last major free-flowing tributary in the Colorado River System. It serves as a sanctuary to native fish and invertebrates, like mayflies, that are adapted to its natural fluctuations. Where the two rivers meet at Echo Park, the Yampa rejuvenates the Green with its warm, silty waters for miles downstream, effectively creating a hybrid river, both regulated and wild.
Echo Park Road
The Echo Park Road is a 14-mile (one way) unpaved road that takes drivers from the Harpers Corner Road to the banks of the Green River at Echo Park. While much of this road is graded and covered with gravel, high clearance vehicles and four-wheel-drive are strongly recommended due to several dry wash crossings and a steep descent down a series of switchbacks known as "the dugway" over the first two miles. The road is not suitable for RVs. Due to the clay soil, the road is not passable when wet. Always check the weather before heading down the Echo Park Road.
The Echo Park Road leads visitors through rugged and scenic canyons. Places of interest along the way include historic sites, such as the Chew Ranch and petroglyph panels at Pool Creek.
Food, fuel, restrooms, and supplies are not available along this road. The primitive Echo Park Campground, located at the end of the 14-mile road, offers vault toilets, picnic tables, and potable water (when weather allows). Visitors must pack out all trash.
Elephant Toes Butte
From the Cub Creek area, Elephant Toes Butte stands amongst the beautiful scenery. The large sandstone bluff, to a creative mind, resembles the foot of an elephant. The butte is composed of 200 million year old Nugget Sandstone.
Ely Creek Backcountry Campsites
Advanced reservations and a backcountry permit are required to camp at Ely Creek.
The Ely Creek Backcountry Campsites are located about 2 miles (1.6 km) one-way from the Jones Hole trailhead. The short distance coupled with primitive amenities makes Ely Creek an ideal trip for a first-time backpacker, or an excellent way to ease back into it!
Ely Creek is one of only two places along
Jones Hole Trail where backcountry camping is allowed. There are two campsites here. Each can accommodate up to 8 people and 2 tents. Amenities include a single bear locker and vault toilet. Potable water is not provided, so campers should bring a filter to treat water from the creek. Visitors must follow all
backcountry rules listed on their permit, and practice
Leave No Trace principles. All of Dinosaur is
home to bears and
mountain lions, including Jones Hole. Campers should take precautions for hiking in wildlife areas.
Permits and advanced reservations are required to camp at Ely Creek. To obtain a reservation and free backcountry permit, call the Information Desk at 435-781-7700 and have the following information ready:
- Preferred dates (multiple options are helpful)
- Contact information (phone and email)
- Number of people
- Entry and exit locations
- Vehicle information (make, model, year, license plate)
Ely Creek Falls
Roughly 2 miles (3.2 km) from the fish hatchery, Ely Creek flows in from the west to join Jones Creek. Follow Ely Creek for approximately a quarter mile (0.4 km) to reach a small, scenic waterfall shaded by Douglas fir and birch trees. Ely Creek Falls provides a peaceful resting point along the Jones Hole Trail as it continues down towards the Green River.
Escalante Overlook
The broad valley before you, ringed by mountains, is called the Uinta Basin. Here, animals and plants from the Great Basin, Colorado Plateau, and Rocky Mountains come together to form a unique mix of ecosystems. The diversity of life within Dinosaur is enhanced by drastic elevation changes, ranging from 4750 to 9000 feet (1448 to 2743 m).
Some plants, like manzanita (a green, round-leafed shrub), have very specific habitat needs. The only place within the monument with the right combination of soil type, sun exposure, and moisture level to support manzanita is here at Escalante Overlook. Some species, like arrowleaf balsamroot (a yellow-flowering plant with wavy arrow-shaped leaves), are less picky and more widespread.
For the remainder of the Harpers Corner Drive, desert shrubland species such as greasewood give way to the sagebrush steppe, a grassland ecosystem characterized by the dominance of sagebrush and shrubs. As their names imply, the sagebrush sparrow and greater sage-grouse are two birds who rely on this habitat for their survival. Semi-desert woodlands characterized by pinyon pine and Utah juniper occasionally intermix with the sagebrush, attracting a variety of birds. Some of these include the Clark's nutcracker (a jay-sized bird colored gray, black, and white) and the juniper titmouse (a tiny all-gray bird with a tiny, adorable crest on its head).
Fossil Discovery Trail - Quarry Hall Trailhead
The Fossil Discorvery Trail is an easy 1.25 mile (2 km) one-way trail that connects the Quarry Visitor Center to the Quarry Exhibit Hall. The trail cuts through several tilted rock layers which expose a variety of rocks and three fossil areas. The Morrison Formation stop features an outcropping of several small fossil fragments and a few large pieces of dinosaur bones in their natural state, just as Earl Douglass found them in 1909.
Be prepared for desert hiking along this trail. There is not shade along the way, so bring a hat, sunscreen, and water. Pets are not allowed on the Fossil Discorvery Trail.
Fossil Discovery Trail - Visitor Center Trailhead
The Fossil Discorvery Trail is an easy 1.25 mile (2 km) one-way trail that connects the Quarry Visitor Center to the Quarry Exhibit Hall. The trail cuts through several tilted rock layers which expose a variety of rocks and three fossil areas. The Morrison Formation stop features an outcropping of several small fossil fragments and a few large pieces of dinosaur bones in their natural state, just as Earl Douglass found them in 1909.
Be prepared for desert hiking along this trail. There is not shade along the way, so bring a hat, sunscreen, and water. Pets are not allowed on the Fossil Discorvery Trail.
Fossil Discovery Trail Petroglyphs
The smooth surfaces of the 90 million year old Frontier Sandstone, a shoreline of an ancient interior seaway, provided an ideal canvas for these petroglyphs left by the ancestral indigenous people of the region over a thousand years ago. These designs include both petroglyphs (patterns chipped or carved into the rock) and pictographs (patterns painted on the rock). Pictographs are relatively rare here, perhaps because they are more easily weathered. Some petroglyphs show traces of pigment, possibly indicating that many designs originally included both carved and painted areas. These designs are very fragile. Touching the petroglyphs and pictographs can damage the designs by leaving oils behind that abrade the rock. Tracing and rubbings can damage the soft sandstone designs. For these reasons, please do not touch the designs.
The style and content of indigenous designs vary throughout the region. The “Classic Vernal Style” predominates in Dinosaur National Monument. This style is characterized by humanlike figures, animal-like figures, and abstract designs. Human figures typically have trapezoidal bodies, which may or may not include arms, legs, fingers, and toes. Elaborate decorations on the bodies suggest headdresses, earrings, necklaces, shields, or other objects. Why did these ancestral cultures create these designs and what did they mean? Perhaps the designs served some ceremonial or religious purpose, related to hunting activities, identified clans, or simply expressed the artist’s imagination – or perhaps all or none of these. Attempts to interpret the designs by comparing them with recent Native American groups may provide clues, but the true meaning remains a mystery.
Gates of Lodore
Gates of Lodore is located on the northern tip of Dinosaur National Monument. It is a long drive to the area and the wild, remote country adds to its sense of isolation. Here, the Green River, after winding across the broad valley known as Browns Park, turns toward the south and makes a direct path into the mountains in front of it. The Green enters into deep canyons filled with rapids that challenged Major John Wesley Powell who passed through here in 1869 on his voyage down the Green and Colorado Rivers. Powell named the location based upon a poem by Robert Southey entitled "The Cataract of Lodore."
Powell was not the first person to venture into this land. Trappers and traders had crossed the Browns Park area. Native American tribes hunted and fished in the region for generations. Homesteaders, ranchers and occasional outlaws would eventually call the area home.
Gates of Lodore Trail
The trail starts with a few steps and then is a level walk above the Green River. The trail ends at a view of the entrance to Lodore Canyon.
Length: ¾ mile one way / 1.5 mile round trip. Not a loop.
Level of Difficulty: Easy. The trail is gravel and even terrain for most of the hike.
Trailhead Location: Located at the Gates of Lodore Campground at the north end of the monument. 137 miles from the Quarry Visitor Center and 101 miles from the Canyon Visitor Center.
Your Safety: Be prepared for desert hiking. Take a hat, sunscreen, and water. Let someone know where you are going, and when to expect you back. Wear comfortable shoes, such as hiking or athletic shoes. Use caution near cliffs! Keep children close by.
Rules and Regulations:
- Pets are not allowed on this trail.
- Carry out all trash.
- Collecting artifacts, fossils, plants, antlers, rocks, or other objects is prohibited.
- Do not feed or approach wildlife.
- Biking is not permitted on this trail.
Gates of Lodore Trail Stop 1
From its origin high in the mountains of the Wind River Range in Wyoming, the Green River rushes through steep-walled canyons and traverses sage-covered valleys. After emerging from the Flaming Gorge Dam, the river wanders placidly through an open valley beginning 30 miles upstream from here. Early trappers and traders to the area named this valley Browns Hole after Baptiste Brown, a French-Canadian trapper. He choose this area to settle because of its mild winters and plentiful beaver pelts.
Travelers that passed through the area later included John Wesley Powell on his historic float through the Grand Canyon. Powell gave the area its current name of Browns Park. However, most local cattle ranchers still referred to the valley as Browns Hole until a spirited young Elizabeth Bassett convinced them to adopt what she termed the much more “eloquent” name of Browns Park. Because of its isolation, Browns Park served as home to not only ranchers but also outlaws including Butch Cassidy, Matt Warner, and the notorious bounty hunter Tom Horn. Today, Browns Park remains sparsely populated by people, but it provides critical habitat for a variety of wildlife.
Gates of Lodore Trail Stop 10
Rounding out the three most common shrubs here is the one that is probably the best known, sagebrush. Its grayish color readily distinguishes it from the greener greasewood and its spicy aroma clinches its identity. Although sagebrush is less tolerant of alkaline soils than saltbush and greasewood, several different species cover vast areas of the Intermountain West.
Gates of Lodore Trail Stop 11
Greasewood, shadscale, and sagebrush dominate a surprisingly complex habitat sometimes referred to as sagebrush steppe. Look around for signs of wildlife. Some species, such as sage grouse, are completely dependent on this habitat. Others like elk and mule deer come and go with the seasons. An abundance of wildflowers creates a patchwork of color every spring.
Gates of Lodore Trail Stop 12
“Soon I see a bright star that appears to rest on the very verge of the cliff overhead to the east. Slowly it seems to float from its resting place on the rock over the canyon. At first it appears like a jewel set on the brink of the cliff, but as it moves out from the rock I almost wonder that it does not fall.”
-John Wesley Powell
Dinosaur National Monument is one of the darkest places remaining in the contiguous United States. Because there is minimal impact from artificial lights, you can still see the stars of our Milky Way galaxy with startling clarity. The majority of residents of the United States live in places where the Milky Way is no longer visible, even on a moonless night. Night skies are a vanishing resource and increasing development, even in many rural areas, expands the impact of light pollution.
The skies above the monument are an important resource to enjoy and protect just like the fossils, stunning scenery, and wild rivers. Natural night skies also provide a important environment for animals and plants that require darkness. Due to isolation, night skies at Gates of Lodore still look similar to those that native peoples and early explorers experienced. When you gaze at the stars, whether with the naked eye or a telescope, not only are you looking into the distance, but also into the past.
Gates of Lodore Trail Stop 13
The Green River, after meandering calmly through Browns Park, turns southward and cuts directly across the Uinta Mountains, which rise 3,000 feet above the valley floor. No one knows for sure why this is the case, but one theory suggests that a few million years ago the river flowed eastward, away from the mountains. When that route was blocked by uplift along the present continental divide, drainage in this area stagnated. Browns Park gradually filled to the brim with sediments. Meandering along on top of that fill, the Green River eventually spilled over the buried crest of the mountains and down their southern slope. This gave it the energy to begin down cutting once more and as it washed out most of the recent sediments, it also rasped its way into the older rocks to carve the Canyon of Lodore.
Gates of Lodore Trail Stop 14
Today, the rugged walls along the Green River are a haunt of the bighorn sheep. These sure footed climbers were probably abundant here in the past based on the number of images of them that appear in the thousand year old rock art of the Fremont People. As the west became more settled with the arrival of Europeans, the bighorn sheep began to die out from a combination of over hunting, disease, and competition from domestic livestock. The last native bighorn sheep seen in Dinosaur was reported in 1944. In 1952 a new herd of animals from elsewhere in Colorado were transplanted into the area. Their population has increased significantly to the point where bighorn sheep are now a common sight along the river corridors. Due to their unique padded hooves, bighorn are able to climb the steep, rocky canyon walls with speed and agility, making them well adapted to life in Dinosaur.
Gates of Lodore Trail Stop 15
“At noon the sun shines in splendor on vermilion walls… and the canyon opens, like a beautiful portal, to a region of glory. This evening, as I write, the sun is going down and the shadows are settling in the canyon… and now it is a dark portal to a region of gloom, the gateway through which we are to enter on our voyage of exploration tomorrow, what shall we find?”
John Wesley Powell wrote these words as he camped near here on June 7, 1869, expressing the combination of excitement and fear he and his companions often felt as they made the first full length expedition down the Green River. Since most of this canyon country was still literally a blank spot on the map, Powell and his men had the opportunity to fill in the blanks with new names. Andy Hall, the youngster of the group, suggested the name of this canyon after recalling “The Cataract of Lodore” by the English poet Robert Southey: “All at once and all o’er, with a mighty uproar and this way the water comes down at Lodore.”
These lines soon proved to be appropriate, for the first large rapid below here wrecked one of the party’s four wooden boats and earned itself the name Disaster Falls. The crew salvaged what they could, and approached the later rapids more cautiously. Powell ultimately floated all the way down the Green and Colorado Rivers through the Grand Canyon.
Gates of Lodore Trail Stop 16
What Powell had called “the great unknown” is now explored by thousands of people every year in rafts and kayaks. River running is very popular in Dinosaur National Monument. The monument uses a permit system both for boater safety and to reduce the impact of too many people concentrated in narrow canyons. To some, imposition of such regulations is contradictory to the freedom of wilderness travel; to others, some control necessary to preserve the wilderness itself. How we protect our public lands, while also allowing for their use, is a continual debate.
Rafters may not have been able to enjoy these wild rivers if proposed dams had been constructed within the monument boundaries. The Echo Park Dam would have flooded the entire Canyon of Lodore and also that of the Yampa River, the Green’s major tributary. Protestors of the dam pointed out that Dinosaur National Monument had been enlarged to protect these canyons in their natural state, not as artificial reservoirs. After years of contentious debate in the 1950s and 60s, the decision was made to not build a dam within the monument boundaries.
Though the water that passes through the Gates of Lodore today is not quite the wild and unknown torrent that Powell saw, it is still a flowing river. The current still gnaws inch by inch into ancient rock; beaver still burrow and feed along the banks; bighorn still find footholds on the canyon walls; and modern explorers thrilled by the sights, the roar of a rapid and the song of a canyon wren can attest that this river is a rare and valuable resource.
Gates of Lodore Trail Stop 2
Browns Park is an isolated area, but it is not immune to change. Beginning in the 1870s, early settlers altered the landscape to suit their needs. Great cattle herds once roamed the range. Unlike native animals, cattle grazed on native grasses faster than they could reproduce and new invasive plants took their place. Cheat grass is one of the most common of these species. Originally introduced in grain shipments from the Mediterranean, it spread rapidly across the American west. Not only does it provide poor forage for native animals, but its seeds have the ability to hitchhike to new destinations by catching in fur or your socks.
Gates of Lodore Trail Stop 3
In contrast to cheat grass, lichens have been here a long time. The colorful patches on the rocks at your feet are alive. They are made of fungi whose filaments can cling to smooth rock and secrete acids that release minerals and algae which take shelter in the fungi and manufacture food for them both. Lichen help to create new habitat by breaking down rock and by naturally decaying themselves, creating a layer of soil where new plants can take hold.
Gates of Lodore Trail Stop 4
The Green River is affected by events that take place far upstream of here. During spring runoff or after heavy rains, the water may be brown, gray or red with silt from nearby tributaries such as Vermilion Creek. In drier weather, the river may live up to its name, flowing cold and green all the way from Flaming Gorge Dam, which traps most of its sediments. The dam’s greatest affect is not the river’s color, but its flow. After its completion in 1969, the great spring floods of former years are now trapped behind the dam. This altered the habitat downstream and made it more difficult for native fish to survive. In response, dam operators release extra water in the spring to
simulate natural flooding and create conditions for the fish to spawn successfully. For the rest of the year, gradual releases from the dam keep the flow at a relatively constant level.
Gates of Lodore Trail Stop 5
Across the river you can see some of the oldest rocks in Dinosaur National Monument, far more ancient than the dinosaur fossils. Perhaps as much as a billion years ago, this area lay near sea level and was being slowly buried by pebbles, sand, and mud washed down from mountains. Partly due to the weight of these sediments, the land gradually sank and the sediments piled up, reaching a thickness of over 24,000 feet. Tremendous pressure and cementing action of dissolved minerals solidified the sediments into the conglomerates, sandstones and shales that today we call the Uinta Mountain Group.
Gates of Lodore Trail Stop 6
The Uinta Mountains, a spur of the Rocky Mountains, were formed by compression of the Earth’s crust. Once level layers, they then buckled upward into a broad arch. The range is highest in north-central Utah and gradually flattens out east of here. This uplifting probably began about the time the dinosaurs went extinct, and most likely continued a little at a time over millions of years. Even as the land rose, it was being worn down by erosion. Many of the younger rock layers have been stripped off to reveal these ancient rocks that were once at the very core of the mountains.
Gates of Lodore Trail Stop 7
If you have traveled from a moister climate, you might not think of this area as forested. The Utah juniper, however, manages to cover much of this arid country. What it lacks in stature, the juniper makes up for in toughness, longevity, the fragrance of its wood, and the beauty of its often gnarled, twisted trunks. Also, from a more utilitarian viewpoint, junipers have fueled many a campfire since prehistoric times, supported miles of fences and perhaps right now are providing you with a bit of welcome shade.
The junipers’ companion in much of the canyon country forests is the pinyon (piñon) pine. Though you might think of pines as growing best on snow-capped mountains, many species, especially the pinyon group are well adapted to lower, drier areas. All leaves have pores through which plants breathe but in pine needles these are sunk in deep pits. Along with a waxy coating the needles help to reduce the amount of moisture lost through evaporation. Also, in many pines a type of root fungus helps draw water from the soil, since the fine strands of the fungus can penetrate into more nooks and crannies than relatively coarse roots. Perhaps you’ve seen or tasted the “pine nuts” sold throughout the Southwest. These are the seeds of the pinyon pine, borne in small cones which ripen in the fall. Harvesting them is a fall tradition for many native cultures. Additionally, pinyon seeds are a staple food for wildlife including the Clarks Nutcracker, Golden Mantled Ground Squirrel and the Juniper Titmouse.
Gates of Lodore Trail Stop 8
You might expect to see cacti in this semi desert, but unless they are in bloom, you may have to look closely to find them. Dinosaur National Monument is a “cold” desert, where temperatures can top 100°F in summer, but may plunge well below zero in the winter. Since cacti survive by storing water in their fleshy stems, they are vulnerable to subfreezing temperatures. Only a few low-growing varieties, likely to be insulated by a blanket of snow during the coldest weather, live here. In spring they show off bright yellow, pink, and red blossoms, but in other seasons watch your step because you might feel one before you see it!
Gates of Lodore Trail Stop 9
Like cacti, most of the plants here must conserve water in order to survive. Feel the leaves of this black greasewood. Their waxy surface helps to hold in moisture, just as waxed paper keeps food fresh. Both greasewood and its smaller cousin, shadscale saltbush, can absorb and store quantities of salt in alkaline soil that would kill many other plants.
Green River Scenic Overlook
This overlook provides a panoramic view of the Cub Creek Valley, which lies between Split Mountain on the left and Blue Mountain on the right. The influence of water in this dry environment is easy to see. The native cottonwood trees shading the campground below depend on the Green River, as do the irrigated crops in the field outside the monument across the river. Just a short distance away from the river’s life-giving waters, sparse grasses, shrubs such as sagebrush and greasewood, and a few small juniper trees reveal the true desert nature of this land. At an elevation of 5,000 feet, rain and snow provide less than 10 inches of water a year. Plants must conserve water or perish. Few cactus species can tolerate subzero winter temperatures but prickly pear cacti are found here, though they are small and scarce.
Harpers Corner
Broad sage-covered plateaus eventually give way to an increasingly narrow ridge. This promontory of land was named Harpers Corner after a local rancher who used it as a natural corral. A short length of fence across one end was enough to confine his livestock, as the other three sides fall away in sheer cliffs to the canyons below.
A parking lot marks the end of the Harpers Corner Road, however your explorations of Dinosaur’s Canyon Country don’t need to end here. You’ll also find the trailhead for a moderate 2 mile (3.2 km) roundtrip trail that features unsurpassed views of the Mitten Park Fault and Whirlpool Canyon, often complimented by the sound of the river echoing up the cliffs.
Harpers Corner Overlook
Located on the Colorado side of the monument, the Harpers Corner Overlook provides a stunning view of the Green and Yampa Rivers as they join and carve vast canyons. The upturned layers of the Mitten Park Fault below the overlook dramatize the millions of years worth of erosion needed to create the staggering geologic views.
Deerlodge Park Campground
Echo Park Campground
Gates Of Lodore Campground
Green River Campground
Rainbow Park Campground
Split Mountain Group Campground